A blog is a website that
anyone can create and use as a platform to reach out to millions of people
discussing specific subjects. Currently within the fashion industry this gives
the consumer a closer relationship to companies as they can test products, review
them for others and voice concerns. Social media in general has been taking
over the Internet with the amount of people interacting on websites such as
Facebook growing by 224.4% from 2010 to 2016 globally. With the growing
popularity of blogging and the ease to create, this has given the fashion
industry a whole new platform to consider. This has been taken in both positive
and negative ways by the older forms of media, which I am about to explore and
look at the opportunities blogging can give someone within the fashion
industry. Bloggers have taken an unconventional route into the industry as
being a part of the general public with an interest in fashion they’re more
connected with the audience who are the main consumers of the fashion. Their
views need to be taken more seriously because of the influence they have.
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| Tavi Gevinson - Feb 2017 NYFW |
During October 2016
tensions seemed to majorly rise between publications and bloggers. With anyone having
the opportunity to create a blog it has given many young people further role
models other than the stereotypical models or designers of the industry who,
they may not necessarily connect with. Blogging gives an opportunity for
discussion between the writer and consumer with many readers going on to create
their own blogs. This approachable perspective on fashion has given people a
gateway into the industry with bloggers such as Tavi Gevinson who is the author
of Style Rookie being invited to sit front row of a Marc Jacobs catwalk. She
took the fashion industry into a turmoil at only 13 years old during the 2009
New York Fashion Week with her blog being so professional it was originally rumored
to be a fake, created by fashion insiders. However, this did create tension
between this new form of media and the old as Style Rookie was rejected as
'gimmicky' by Elle’s Anne Slowey. i-D magazine actually hit back at the Marc
Jacobs fashion show in particular saying only 'educated sensible members of the
media, who have studied fashion from an objective point of view' should be
invited to such shows. However Kelly Cutrone who has been organising fashion
shows since the mid 80's commented on the blogging revolution stating 'do I
think, as a publicist that I now have to have my eye on some kid who's writing
a blog in Oklahoma as much as I do on an editor from Vogue? Absolutely.' This
shows just how powerful blogging can be with it having a domino effect on what
happens in major fashion events all around the world.
Unfortunately bloggers
unconventional career progression threatens these more established members of
the press. In September 2016 Vogue’s editors published a reflective recap of
Milan Fashion week including their favorite collections from Gucci, Versace,
Prada and many others as well as their experience in the Italian fashion city
but a good percentage seemed to be devoted to targeting fashion bloggers and
influencers. The Vogue editors didn’t hold back on their opinions of the
matter:
Sally Singer,
Creative Digital Director: "note to bloggers who change head-to-toe,
paid-to-wear outfits every hour: please stop. find another business. You are
heralding the death of style."
Sarah Mower,
Chief Critic: "you watch how many times the desperate troll up and
down outside shows, in traffic, risking accidents even, in hopes of being
snapped."
Nicole Phelps,
Director Of Vogue Runway: "it's not just sad for the women who preen
for the cameras in borrowed clothes, it's distressing, as well, to watch so
many brands participate."
Alessandra
Codinha, Fashion News Editor: "am I allowed to admit that I did a little fist
pump when sally broached the blogger paradox? There’s not much I can add here
beyond how funny it is that we even still call them 'bloggers’"
These
comments didn’t get overlooked with bloggers Susie Bubble and Bryanboy taking
to twitter with their responses:
Susie Bubble: “It's just that bloggers sadly don't have
prestigious titles/publications to hide behind and represent themselves
solely.”
Bryanboy: "How
satisfying it must be to go for the easy target rather than going for other
editors."
Telling
bloggers to "find another business," is probably the cruelest remark to date. However, bloggers do find other businesses with clothing lines,
collaborations, campaigns and many other avenues. Street style and front row
opportunities are only a one element of what these bloggers really do.
Video blogging also referred to, as ‘vlogging’ has also become an increasingly popular way of communicating on the Internet in a blog form. Theses vlogs are typically based around individual’s daily lives however, some vloggers with an interest in the fashion industry do tend to centre their content around this more. Some of the more popular vloggers such as Jim Chapman and Marcus Butler have been able to use their popularity they have gained through video blogging to feature on some major catwalks such as the Dolce & Gabbana Milan fashion week in January 2017. This is an opportunity that without the Internet platform would of before never be seen or heard of with typically ‘normal’ people having such an involvement in a high pace and exclusive industry. Vlogger Bethany Mota has created such a popular ‘brand’ to her name with the ability to have such a close connection with her audience she has had some major opportunities such as being able to design for major fashion company aeropostale; with her collection being dedicated to her style that she has built up on her video blogs which, flew off the shelves from a number of her followers. As well as all of this vloggers Zoe Sugg and Tanya Burr have featured on the front of major fashion magazines Cosmopolitan and Glamour amongst many others. It is believed with the popularity of websites such as YouTube featuring these homemade stars helps sell to a much wider audience than what they would have prior to the blogging revolution.
Video blogging also referred to, as ‘vlogging’ has also become an increasingly popular way of communicating on the Internet in a blog form. Theses vlogs are typically based around individual’s daily lives however, some vloggers with an interest in the fashion industry do tend to centre their content around this more. Some of the more popular vloggers such as Jim Chapman and Marcus Butler have been able to use their popularity they have gained through video blogging to feature on some major catwalks such as the Dolce & Gabbana Milan fashion week in January 2017. This is an opportunity that without the Internet platform would of before never be seen or heard of with typically ‘normal’ people having such an involvement in a high pace and exclusive industry. Vlogger Bethany Mota has created such a popular ‘brand’ to her name with the ability to have such a close connection with her audience she has had some major opportunities such as being able to design for major fashion company aeropostale; with her collection being dedicated to her style that she has built up on her video blogs which, flew off the shelves from a number of her followers. As well as all of this vloggers Zoe Sugg and Tanya Burr have featured on the front of major fashion magazines Cosmopolitan and Glamour amongst many others. It is believed with the popularity of websites such as YouTube featuring these homemade stars helps sell to a much wider audience than what they would have prior to the blogging revolution.
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| Zoe Sugg & Tanya Burr Magazine Covers |
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| Marcus Butler & Jim Chapman Jan 17 Dolce&Gabbana |
With both bloggers and
vloggers having such an impression on the fashion industry this means they must
provide a role. Their work provides content for websites and gives a platform
for brands to display their most recent collections. But when the transition
from the title ‘blogger’ to ‘professional’ happens is still unknown as current major street style photographers, such as Scott
Schuman and Phil Oh, were once considered bloggers as well, yet today their
work is acknowledged as a fully accomplished business, and their attendance has
become a staple of every fashion month event. So why is the same regard not
given to so many fashion bloggers who’ve earned the credit within the industry
and created an equally successful business out of their individual brands?
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| Scott Schuman Street Style Photographer |
Bibliography:
http://www.thestylerookie.com
http://www.vogue.co.uk
http://www.aeropostale.com/family/?categoryId=23753606
http://teneightymagazine.com/2017/01/16/jim-chapman-and-marcus-butler-take-part-in-dolce-gabbana-show/
http://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/entertainment/news/a41923/beauty-vlogger-zoella-earns-thousands-a-month/
http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/person/tanya-burr/
https://twitter.com/susiebubble?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Eauthor
https://twitter.com/bryanboy?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Eauthor
Images:
Tavi Gevinson: http://www4.pictures.zimbio.com/gi/Tavi+Gevinson+Proenza+Schouler+Front+Row+February+bovuuyrK8_2l.jpg
Marcus Butler: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/6c/c5/8b/6cc58b88c0f806a8e4ac9eb733d7ec9c.jpg
Jim Chapman: http://prod.static9.net.au/_/media/Network/Images/2017/01/17/15/28/Jim-Chapman.jpg
Zoe Sugg: https://fashionandstylepolice.files.wordpress.com/2016/10/gallery-1475437197-zoella-cover.jpg
Tanya Burr: https://gl-images.condecdn.net/image/b5rZ9ex271O/crop/405
Scott Schuman: http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2015/02/02/254846DE00000578-0-image-a-96_1422917312799.jpg